Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


We encourage our kids to plan for their future, but we seldom include buying a first home sooner than average as a path to building that future. Let them know buying a home is easier than they think.

Most of the people who read this column are not first time homebuyers. The fact of the matter is many of you that are first time homebuyers and reading this article are relatively mature individuals who are fighting off your commitment fears of being tied to a mortgage. But there is a huge segment of the population that could buy their first home, yet it doesn’t occur to them to do so. Who are these people? Well, it’s your 24 year old son or daughter, new to the work force, and is throwing away money on rent somewhere. Encouraging your children to buy a home when they are young is some of the soundest financial advice you can give them. Equity in a home is an easy way to grow one’s portfolio with very little investment. But the fact of the matter is it doesn’t occur to most of us to encourage the younger generation to buy early in their lives. And trust me, it rarely occurs to our kids themselves to consider buying a home in the early twenties. They are more concerned with buying a new Halo 3 for their Xbox.

Why do so many people miss the boat on this opportunity? It could be they plan to be in the area for only a short time because they will job hop to advance their career, thus viewing a mortgage as “too permanent.” I counter to simply sell the house when you move. Or maybe they expect their income to double or triple over the next three years. I say buy a home now, then upgrade to a new home; sell or rent the old house. Investing in real estate is a proven, safe and solid return on investment. And with the right combination of credit history (or a history of paying utilities, cable and your cell phone on time) and no money down, you or someone you care about can start investing in the future.

When Junior starts his new job at the company and 401(K) is available, he’s been informed by his folks, boss or peers to enroll and contribute at least a little something to it with every paycheck. Yet, he is rarely counseled quit renting that apartment for $750 a month and buy a $75,000 house. Where will he come up with the money to do it? There are multiple options for first time buyers that allow for 100% financing. Get the seller to kick in closing costs (up to 6% of sales price with some products), and one can close on a loan and bring no funds to the table. If your home value appreciates 4% in the next year, that’s a nice return on a no cash investment.

For some time, I’ve considered writing this series for first time buyers to let them know buying a home is easier than they think. But, the more I thought about it, the more I realized the advice I would offer would most likely not reach my target audience. So parents, it is up to you to supply your kids with this last little bit of advice and help to set them free to further establish their independence in this world. Clip this article out and tape it to their iPOD or the steering wheel of their car - someplace it will get noticed.

I think for most of us who have been through the experience, our first home buy was a very daunting experience. There are so many choices and unknowns - it can be overwhelming. In this series, I will try to break it down the process into small logical steps and make it easier understand the steps involved in financing your first home. Where do you start? That is perhaps the easiest part. Our newly established worker should first make a list of all his or her debt obligations such as student loans (unless deferred), car payments, credit card debt, etc. Hopefully at this age, this will be a small list. Then add what you think amount you could afford for a mortgage. Take that amount and divide it by your gross monthly income. If you come in at 43% or less, you’re in business. If you have something in your savings or checking - great. If not, don’t let it deter you. You have options.

Contact a mortgage specialist to drill out the details and find a good realtor who knows your market for housing you can afford. What next? Get ready to tell your landlord “Adios!.”



CARLOS

Loan Modification Attorney asked:


A Home Loan Modification can help you stop foreclosure and stay in your home. But if you’re like most homeowners, you’re probably wondering how it will affect your credit, and whether in a good or bad way. Unfortunately, there’s no single answer—it all depends on how far behind you are and the kind of mortgage loan modification you’ll be granted.

Best-case scenarios



Technically, since you’re not borrowing any money, a home loan modification won’t hurt your credit score. If you’re paying less in interest, you have a smaller debt burden. And since most lenders prefer an interest rate reduction, there’s a pretty good chance that a Home loan modification will improve your credit score.

The implications are even better if your lender forgives part of the principal, although this is less common. If they write off $50,000 from your loan amount, it will show up on your report as a smaller loan, which can increase your credit score.



The lender factor

Unfortunately, it doesn’t always happen that way. It also depends on how your lender reports the home loan modification to the credit bureaus. Many of them will consider it paid for less than the original amount owed, which will count against your score. If you’re already in foreclosure, the impact on your credit can be substantial. Of course, compared to a short sale or a foreclosure, a Mortgage Loan Modification is still the best way to maintain your credit standing.

Tax implications



One of the early problems with Loan modification is that the amount forgiven is usually taxable. That means if your debt is reduced by $50,000, the IRS views it as income and imposes the corresponding tax. This can catch homeowners off guard during tax season, as many of them don’t know the tax implications at the time of the modification.

To avoid such incidents, the IRS announced in 2007 that Loan modification would no longer be classified as “prohibited transactions.” This applied to all loans originated from January 2004 to July 2007, the peak of the sub-prime boom, and those due to adjust from January 2009 to July 2012. If your mortgage falls under these categories, you won’t have to file a 1099 declaring the change as taxable.

A loan modification is much like going to court: you can save your money and get a court-appointed lawyer, or you can invest in professional representation and get the best mortgage assistance. Your loss mitigation won’t happen overnight, but if with a capable Loan Modification Attorney, you can be sure you’re in good hands.



AUBREY

Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


Think about why this is true. A good appraisal is the best reassurance that the lender won’t lose its pants on the transaction. If the borrower defaults, the lender still has a marketable property that can be sold to recoup its losses. All of which makes it understandable why lenders are so picky about appraisals. And with recent changes in the industry, the focus by lenders to obtain good appraisals is at the forefront.

Appraisals typically cost anywhere from $350 to $400. However, if the house is gigantic, multi-unit or in the boondocks, it could run more. The cost varies on property type, location and square footage.

The most common type of appraisal is the Uniform Residential Appraisal Report (URAR). It consists of interior and exterior photos and sometimes (depending on the age of the home), a complete cost breakdown of the property and comps (comparison sales of homes nearby that meet the proper criteria). These comps help determine the “market” approach. Each comp sale is adjusted in value when stacked against the home being evaluated (the one you’re buying or refinancing). Usually you will see a comp below the value of your home, in line with the value of your home, and a third above the value of your home. Kind of like the three bears. But if the valuation gets tricky, you can see fourth, fifth and sixth comps. The net value of the comps is estimated based upon the approaches used to come up with the appraised value of your property (meaning the appraiser performs some type of calculation that’s kind of like an average, but not necessarily a true average. Confused yet?)

URARs also, typically but not always, reflect a cost approach, which determines what the value would be based upon what is estimated it would cost to rebuild the home, less depreciation. The final estimated value of the home is then determined by using a melding of the market approach described above and cost approach (if applicable).

Lori Babb, Staff Appraiser for Mortgage Investors Group of Knoxville, TN, further explains comparables. “The best comparables are those similar in size, style (ranch, basement rancher, 2 story, etc.), age, and are close in proximity to the dwelling being appraised,” she explains. “Unique properties will typically require more adjustments than the average properties.”

So, say you’re Bill Gates and want to secure a mortgage on a $200,000 home (I know, it’s ridiculous, but I’m trying to make a point). He’s got the best credit profile a lender could imagine, yet the house appraises for $175,000. Deal or no deal? You better believe it’s no deal. The sales price will have to be lowered, or Mr. Gates will just have to pay cash for his new home (you think he can afford it?). The point is, your average Joe won’t go ahead with the deal without a price adjustment, and he will be obligated to pay for the appraisal regardless of the outcome of value.

Dan Tyrell, principal of Knoxville area’s Tyrell Appraisal Service, Inc., has this comment about value, “When determining value of a single family house, beauty is more than ‘skin deep’. Fresh paint, new carpet, new appliances, and nice landscaping all enhance the marketability of a house. Not so obvious items also impact the appraised value of a house. For instance older houses that have replaced plumbing/electrical systems, updated HVAC systems, newer roofs, replacement windows, etc. lower the effective age of the property which in turn increases the appraised value.”

There are other types of appraisals that are not as common, like an Automated Valuation Model (or AVM). In this case, different factors combine to ensure the value of the home (it’s worth $200K, but your loan amount is only $100K) and your unbelievable credit worthiness (800 credit score!), allowing you to skip purchasing a typical appraisal. You may also only be required to get a “drive by” appraisal, where the appraiser just inspects the exterior of the subject for size, looks at the lot and makes you wonder who that person standing by your mailbox is.

Most lenders control what appraiser is used to determine the value of your home. After all, it’s their money on the line. The appraisal is such an important factor to the mortgage transaction – make sure you’re satisfied with the results. Your lender will make sure it is satisfied!



MAXWELL

Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


Just out of school and considering buying your first home? You’ll be surprised how easy it can be to qualify for a loan. Too often, the newly minted workforce doesn’t realize the confidence lenders have in their ability to be responsible homeowners.

Ok, so Mom and Dad told you that you need to buy a house. You’ve graduated from college and you’re earning a decent income. Even though you don’t feel like it most of the time, you are officially all grown up. But you ask yourself, “I’m only twenty-four years old, who would possibly loan me money to buy a house?”

First time homebuyer programs are established with flexible guidelines to attract - you guessed it -first time homebuyers! You are in a great position to buy a home provided you have established some history of decent credit. Even if you don’t have traditional lines of credit to show for yourself, you may have established non-traditional credit and not even realized it. Do you have utilities, a cell phone and cable bill in your name? Have you paid them on time for 12 months? Then you have established non-traditional credit. Granted, many of you already have a credit card or gas card in your name. That’s why Dad wanted your name on it, too. Good thinking on his part. At the time, you were just excited to get the credit card “for emergencies.” It didn’t even occur to you that you were establishing a good credit history.

Most lenders want to see at least a year under your belt earning income. The majority of new job workers are making at or under the median income limit for their area. There are those that beat the curve, but then, if you’re making that much money on your first job, you don’t need a first time homebuyer program. You can probably take another route to your first home. Also, recent graduates can get credit for having a diploma. If you have a diploma and an employer who is willing to verify that you earn what you say and are likely to continue on with them, then you’re good to go -even without a year’s employment history to show for yourself.

Some lending programs ask that a borrower have maintained an excellent rental history, preferably a two year history. But, you don’t get penalized if you have been living at home. Especially, if home is in the same city that your school is located. You are simply asked to provide explanation as to how you managed to live rent free. Sometimes, Mom and Dad have to provide a written statement. They’re probably willing to do that to get you out of the house and off the payroll.

What about a down payment and closing costs? Most programs will allow a seller to chip in 3% of the sales price toward your closing costs. This allowance can cover most if not all of your closing costs. Your Realtor simply needs to be aware that you need this concession so she/he can negotiate it with your purchase contract. And how much do you have to come up with for a down payment? How about $0? Nearly all first time homebuyer programs are designed for empty pocket consumers with potential to earn more and maintain good credit. Some programs don’t require you to have any reserves in the bank. Since so many first time homebuyers live on a budget, these programs allow for the reality of life. And you can be rewarded for being a conscientious consumer with lower than average interest rates being available to you.

You may be ready to buy your first home and not even know it. A good mortgage specialist will pre-qualify you, find out what you can afford or what your comfortable paying. Then, you just have to find the right home. It’s easier than you think!



WADE

Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


There’s a bunch of important points to review when considering a mortgage. And a ton of paperwork to look over. So much so at times it can be quite overwhelming. A Good Faith Estimate is one document to consider, and many people focus solely on it. But, in 1968, our lawmakers wanted to make sure lenders made it clear to the consumers just exactly what they were paying and that this information was consistently disclosed lender by lender. And for that, we have the Truth in Lending document, created by the Truth In Lending Act and outlined by Regulation Z.

The Truth in Lending document, or TIL as it’s affectionately known in the Biz, tells the consumer a lot about what he/she is getting into. It tells so much so that it can confuse a person, too. Thus, it is important to know and understand what it tells you. It allows one to make an informed decision. A TIL should be part of the beginning of the loan process and the end. When it’s all said and done, a mortgage customer should have reviewed an estimated TIL before closing, and then have also signed his/her final TIL at loan closing. The information found on the estimated TIL shouldn’t be too far off from the final TIL. If it is and you don’t understand the explanation for it, it’s time to put on the brakes.

A TIL will reflect your loan amount, interest rate and the amortization of your loan. A TIL comes in a standard layout, and most TILs will look the same from a distance, though there may be a few variations, like a payment reflection, lender’s logo, etc. But the nuts and the bolts should be identical in format.

The main thing you notice about TILs is they all have four boxes containing numbers stretched across their horizon. These boxes don’t mean much to you until they’re explained. But these are important numbers, which is why they are so blatantly highlighted in these little boxes. They shouldn’t be brushed off. If the TIL is an estimated or intial TIL, you’ll see a little “e” by the numbers in the boxes. Pretty straight forward - “e” means estimate. The final TIL you sign at closing should reflect all the numbers on your HUD-1 settlement papers and the “e” should be gone. That means you’re signing the final, real McCoy that is calculated by your final numbers.

The first box on the TIL reflects the Annual Percentage Rate (APR) or cost of your credit expressed as a yearly rate. Don’t panic, this rate is not your interest rate. It is the rate that the closing costs are actually costing you annualized over a year, and generally it is higher than your interest rate. However, if your mortgage is locked at a 5% interest rate, but your APR rate is 10%, you should reconsider the deal or get a second opinion. You’re paying too much.

The second box is the Finance Charge or the dollar amount the credit will cost you. It is the total amount of interest calculated at the interest rate over the life of the loan, plus Prepaid Finance Charges and the total amount of any required mortgage insurance charged over the life of the loan. The third box reflects the Amount Financed or the total amount credited to you on your behalf, minus Prepaid Finance Charges.

The fourth box is the one that gets most people’s attention - the Total of Payments. It’s the amount that a customer will actually pay back in principal, interest (and mortgage insurance, if applicable) if they keep the loan for the full term and stick to the outlined amortization schedule. Ouch. People find this number a little incredulous. I guess it really sends it home that mortgage lending is a business, and some company is going to make some money from it.

There are three other things on a TIL I like to point out to a customer. One is the late payment penalty. People need to know what it will cost them if their check gets to the Servicer late. It’s usually 4% or 5% of the monthly principal and interest payment, depending on the loan type. Another VERY important feature a lender should point out to a customer is if there is a PRE-PAYMENT penalty on the loan. A pre-payment penalty means that if you pay the loan off before a pre-determined time, you pay for the luxury of doing so. Make sure you know the terms of the pre-payment penalty if you should have one, and that you are certain you can live with it. They can be quite costly. Finally, the TIL tells you that should you pay off your loan early, you won’t be entitled to any of your closing costs or interest being refunded. In other words, don’t expect to get any of the money you have already paid back.

Simple enough, right? To tell you the truth, it is confusing, even for a mortgage lender. Take time to understand this document and ask all the questions you have regarding it. Don’t be shy.



DUNCAN

Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


"In order to promote the production of more affordable new housing units for very low, low and moderate income individuals and families in the state, to promote the preservation and rehabilitation of existing housing units for such persons, and to bring greater stability to the residential construction industry and related industries so as to assure a steady flow of production of new housing units…"

Many times, people have heard of THDA and are confused, thinking that THDA is a certain loan type. In fact, it’s lending agency. All THDA mortgages must be insured by private mortgage insurance, FHA, VA or RECD And as these loans are intended for low to moderate income families or individuals, there is a income limit and acquisition cost limit. Also, you must be a first time homebuyer unless your home is in a targeted area.

Why is THDA so fantastic for a first time homebuyer? Well, it comes down to money. THDA offers a below market rate and will allow up to 100% financing. Have you been reading the papers lately? It’s not so easy to find 100% financing these days. Unless, that is, you’re a first time homebuyer. It also has programs that allow for down payment assistance via grants from certain approved agencies (if your loan type requires a down payment). If you have satisfactory credit and the home you wish to buy meets THDA’s standards, then you’re in business.

All THDA mortgages are 30 year fixed rate loans, so you needn’t worry about finding yourself with an ARM loan (adjustable rate mortgage) and a new payment you can’t afford in 3 years. And THDA allows lenders to only charge customers a standard 1% origination and .25% discount fee. It also closely monitors fees associated with the loan. THDA really looks out for the best interest of the first time homebuyer. If you are eligible for a THDA loan, you can feel pretty certain that an unscrupulous lender can’t take advantage of you because THDA won’t let them. For so many people, buying a home is pretty intimidating. THDA takes away the uncertainties a buyer faces with its guidelines and lending practices.

If you do apply for a THDA loan, be prepared to document your credit worthiness. THDA loans require slightly more documentation than your average loans because of the uniqueness of its product. In order to offer more, THDA asks for more – ensuring you qualify for its pretty awesome program. Sounds like a fair trade, if you ask me.

What are the disadvantages of a THDA loan? Not many. They do have a federal recapture tax if you sell your home within the first nine years of owning it. But it sounds scarier than it really is. I’ve heard that only about 1% of THDA customers actually pay this tax. That’s because a bunch of really great things have to happen to you in order for it to actually apply to you. And if those great things happen to you, paying the recapture tax won’t matter much to you anyway. I’ve been in the business for 16 years and have only heard of one person actually having to pay one. He graduated from medical school and his income when through the roof. His property was sold above market value than for the area because it was adjacent to some property that a huge retailer wanted to purchase. Again, good things have to happen to pay the recapture tax. So, you shouldn’t be afraid of it.

More people need to hear about and take advantage of the THDA loan programs. It’s such a great product and really helps the community and the housing industry. If you’re a first time homebuyer or think you’re in a targeted area, make sure you ask about THDA to see if you would qualify for a loan. You won’t regret it!



ERNEST

Kristin Abouelata - Home Loans asked:


Buying a home is a confusing process, and one of the most confusing prospects is settling on an interest rate.  Even when you decide what type of loan you want, you find you still have options as to what rate to lock.  Some of these options stem from whether or not you buy down the rate by paying a point.  A point is a fee that equals 1% of the loan amount.  For instance, if you are buying a $100,000 home, and your note amount is $97,000 (because you’re putting $3000 down), a point would cost you $970.

 

You can see the points you are being charged on line and 802 of your Good Faith Estimate, and later, on the same line on your HUD-1.  This line item reflects fees known as  “discount points”, but they truly aren’t interchangeable with origination fees (line 801) even if they sometimes serve the same purpose.  If you choose to pay a discount point, you should  expect a lower rate than if you didn’t.  So, if you’re quoted a rate of 6% 0 + 1, you are paying 1 discount point. If the quote is 6% 1+0, you’re paying an origination fee.  And 6% 0+0?  You’re paying no fees in either form.

 

What’s the difference between an origination fee and a discount point?  Well a few things.  Technically, an origination fee is what you pay the lender or the organization that takes the initial application and processes the loan.  A discount point is specifically paid to the lender to buy down or permanently lower the interest rate, and it’s usually a percentage of the loan amount.  You can also pay additional points to buy down your rate, not just a flat 1%.  You can pay a .5% or 2%.  It just has to make good economical sense for you.  And it shouldn’t be robbing you blind.

 

From a tax standpoint, there isn’t much difference.  An origination fee is generally tax deductible as long as it’s charged in the form of a “point” or percentage of the loan amount. However, you may ask your lender to charge you a discount point versus an origination fee to keep things neat and simple. Sometimes mortgage lenders charge you an origination fee when technically they should be charging you a discount point.  But they’re collecting all the fees anyway and happen to be giving you a lower rate.  It really matters most if you are working with a mortgage broker. Mortgage brokers can’t be paid discount points, only origination fees or broker fees. They can collect discount points to lower your rate, but  the discount point has to be paid to the mortgage lender with whom they’re doing business. And, this information should be disclosed properly on your Good Faith Estimate

 

 

A typical trade off is that a 1% discount point equals about .25% reduction in interest rate.  You should be able to easily decipher whether or not it’s worth it to buy your rate down.  How long do you plan to be in the home?  If not that long, then maybe you should think about a 0+0 quote.  If it’s your forever home, then dipping into your wallet and footing higher closing costs might be worth it in the long run.

 

However, if you look at your Good Faith Estimate and it seems you’re paying too much in origination fees and/or discount points, then you probably are.  Say something to your lender.  And if he doesn’t budge, you may want to look elsewhere.  Go with your gut instinct or call another reputable lender and get a second opinion.



YOUNG