Prince§§ of µnί©orn waΨ asked:


hey, i have a credit score of 750, I want to know how high my interest rate would be for a home loan of about $80,000. I can check mortgage calculators for how much payments will be, but only if i fill in the interst rate, i just want to know a realistic guess about what that might be!

IRWIN

babieyig asked:


just wondering..because just recently i applied for a loan there and gotten approved and was ready to buy a home but at the last minute my loan officer told me that i wasn’t approved anymore…he had no excuse and then told me he could refer me to another mortgage that could maybe help me…the other mortgage did approve me but it was about 1.25 more of the interest rate…i just don’t want to trust them…
my score is 721..

MASON

Sara asked:


I am in the process of buying my 1st home. What I dont understand is that the mortgage company is charging more interest than the borrowing amount but the interest rate is what I see advertised everywhere in my area?? When I calculate the interest on the loan it is completely different from what they are telling me. Is it normal to pay more interest on a home loan?? Or what is normal?
Right now if I go with this loan it is like I am paying for two houses or an amount that I would have never considered on a home before because it would seem out of my range. I dont get all this so any help is very much appreciated. I would love to think I am making a good choice if it is…..I really like this home.

ARRON

T. asked:


My soon to be husband and I are renting a home in our area and paying $1100.00 a month in rent. (This is quite a bit for the area that we live in) We are wanting to buy a home and feel that we have sufficient income (around $90,000) to own a home. The problem is that our credit scores are in the high 500’s. We have been told that we could qualify for a home loan but may have a higher interest rate. We have little debt between the two of us and have a down payment set aside from a family member. Just wondering if anyone has obtained a mortage loan with simular circumstances?

EDMUND

Spring love asked:


We just got married and my credit score is 726 with $21,000 in debt, (mainly in car payments) My husbands score is 629 with $20,000 in debt (again in car payments and one credit card). Would it be easy for us to get a mortgage with these scores?

I know there are a lot of other details that factor in, we are just looking for suggestions! Thanks

JOHN

Brad Stroh asked:


Qualifying for a Mortgage

Before you buy a home, it is crucial that you weigh how you can afford to pay for it. You don’t want to waste time or money by bidding on a house that you cannot afford or by applying for a loan that is beyond your means to pay month after month and year after year. Figuring out your budget for your home will make it easier to get the right loan and also to know what changes you may need to make to your finances and to you credit profile.

As a standard rule you are advised to buy a house worth no more than 3 times your gross household income. Use this figure if you have some other debts, such as student loans, car payments, or sizable credit card balances. If you have no other debts, you likely can afford a house that costs as much as five times your annual household income.

When potential lenders review your ability to qualify you for a home loan, they are going to pay close attention to your debt-to-income ratio (DTI). To determine your DTI, start by computing your total net monthly income. This includes your monthly wages and any overtime, commissions or bonuses that are guaranteed; plus any pension monies or monies that come from alimony or child support, if applicable. If your income varies month-to-month, calculate your monthly average over the past two years. Don’t forget to include any other monies earned, whether from rentals or any other additional income.

To determine your monthly debt obligations, make sure to include all of your credit card bills, any loans, such as automobile, student, or personal and the amount of the new mortgage payment in the loan that you will apply for. Make sure to include your monthly rent payments if you rent. When you are adding up your credit card obligations, use the minimum required monthly payment. Divide your total monthly debt obligations by your total monthly income. This is your total debt-to-income ratio. The lower your DTI, the better. A high DTI can prevent you from getting the loan. It also can be a warning sign that even a loan that you qualify for could be a serious burden to make each month.

Most lenders traditionally will qualify your for the loan with a DTI of 28% to 44% of your monthly income. In other words, if your monthly income is $4,000, the lender would ordinarily want you to pay no more than $1,760 (.44 x $4,000) toward all your debts. Some sub-prime lenders will allow borrowers to have DTI ratios as high as 55%.

You may have compensating factors that will allow you to qualify for the loan, even with a less than desirable DTI. For instance, f you have an excellent credit record, a lender might allow you to go more deeply into debt. Just how high a DTI you can have and still qualify for the loan will depend on such factors as the amount of your down payment, the interest rate on your new mortgage, your credit history and score, and how much other debt you are carrying.

Bills.com has mortgage calculators that will help you quickly determine monthly payments on different size mortgages so you can learn how much house you can afford. All calculators are not created equal — but all of them are free. You should investigate different scenarios, so you can see how the amount of down payment, the length of the loan term, and the interest rates will affect the size of the monthly payment. (http://www.bills.com/mortgage/)

Before you start shopping for a loan and a home, you need to know some terms you will encounter:

Pre-qualification. Getting pre-qualified for a loan is a good thing, but it is NOT a guarantee that you will actually get the loan. To get pre-qualified, you will speak to a lender and go over the standard questions: your income (and DTI), your credit rating, and the size of your down payment. Prequalifying lets you determine exactly how much you’ll be able to borrow and how much you’ll need for a down payment and closing costs. Still, the lender is not asking to see the proof of your income claims, so any ‘approval’ you receive you can vanish into thin air.

Pre-approval. If you are serious about moving forward, it is recommended to get pre-approved for a specific loan amount. To get pre-approved, the lender will actually verify your credit and income documents, rather than relying on the numbers you provide them about your income and debts.

The documents that you will need to assemble for the lender to get your pre-approval are: Federal Income Tax Returns and W-2 forms for the past two years; the two most recent months’ pay stubs with your name and year-to-date earnings; proof of any other income you claim on your application, such as alimony, pensions or Social Security income; a list of all your creditors that shows the total balances due and the minimum required monthly payments, and proof of all assets, such as savings, stocks and bonds, or any other real estate owned.

Funds to be used for a down payment likely need to be in your account for two months before you can use them, IF they are coming from someone else, like your parents. Just having the funds in your account is NOT enough. Lenders will demand that any funds used to satisfy down payment and closing costs must come from your own resources. Funds must be ‘seasoned’ in your possession for at least two to three months. You can prove the funds are ‘seasoned’ by supplying two to three months of bank statements or documentation demonstrating that funds have been in your possession.

Almost every lender is going to ask to see the credit reports supplied by the three main credit bureaus: Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. The credit report will show your financial history, showing the different transactions you have made, as well as providing your credit risk score. This score is known as the FICO score, named after Fair, Isaac, & Company, who developed many of the computer scoring models. It can be almost impossible to fully understand why your FICO scores is what it is, but key factors that are weighed in determining your score are: How timely you have paid your bills, how much debt you are carrying, how much of your available credit you are using (the size of the balance compared to the size of the credit line), how many credit cards and loans you have open, how many people have looked at your credit report recently, and if there is any negative information about in the public record area of your report. This area is where a judgment against you would appear as well as items like tax liens filed by the State or Federal Government.

The higher your credit score, the easier it will be for you to qualify for a loan. If you routinely pay your bills late, you will have a lower score, in which case a lender may either reject your loan application altogether or insist on a very large down payment or high interest rate. Because your credit history has such an important effect on the type and amount of mortgage loan you’ll be offered, make sure that you check your report regularly. If you find it necessary to clean up your report, you will want to do so before you apply for a mortgage. Almost every lender is going to ask to see the credit reports supplied by the three main credit bureaus reporting your file: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. The credit report will show a history of your financial transactions as well as providing your credit risk score. This score is known as the FICO score, named after Fair, Isaac & Company, who developed many of the computer scoring models. It can be almost impossible to fully understand why your FICO score is what it is, but key factors being weighed in the scoring are: How timely you have paid your bills, how much debt you are carrying, how much of your available credit you are using (the size of the balance compared to the size of the credit line), how many credit cards and loans you have open, how many people have looked at your credit report recently, and if there is any negative information about in the public record area of your report.

At the end of the day, if your mortgage and home fit into a well thought out financial game-plan, home ownership can be one of the most rewarding investments in your portfolio. Be sure to consider all of the issues, and make sure you get the right loan for your needs.



JULES

Rico asked:


i’m filing for chapter 7 also later on mortgage payments. We are planning to keep the house. I was wondering if I could get my home loan modified after the discharge.

RORY

elizzyss asked:


my husband and I signed a contract to build a tract home and we no longer want to purchase the house. The house is under construction and we have advised the builder that we do not want the house anymr. We told them that they can keep the earnest money (12k) as we would rather cut our losses there - they will not let us out of the contract and said they will sue for specific performance. The only way we can get out of the contract is if we are not approved come closing. Unfortunately we will be. How can I make it so that we arenot approved without sabatoging our credit? I was wondering if we can purchase another house ( that we really want instead) and close 2 weeks befoe closing on the new house so that we will not be approved for the original loan because we will have two mortgage payments. Is that cheating the system?And can they come after us?

MITCHELL

mixmaster asked:


I currently have a fixed 6.5% 30 yr fixed loan. I recently got laid off and my wife works full-time, but is not on the loan. We are having trouble with making the payment at this point and could actually catch up, but that would leave us with no money and no possible way of making payments after that. Technically my house could be appraised at about $10k or so less then what the loan is for, not sure if they take that into account when they do the modification. Does anyone have any dealings with them or have any advice on how to get this taken care of? We only need the payment reduced by about $250 or so, more would be better of course. What would they be able to modify? The interest? The total amount? They asked when I was going to be employed again, I said probably next month and they asked for an employment letter stating what I will be making. I said I can get that and send it to them, then asked what if I am not going to be making as much as I was. They said they could not use my wife’s income so she would have to be assumed onto the mortgage, I am assuming having her name on the loan also, which is fine with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way the bank is Flagstar. Would I be able to lower my rate and will I be able to utilize the Home Stability Act that President Obama has laid out. According the website the bank would have to voluntarily participate in it but they are incentives to them to do so.

I asked this question before but I added some extra stuff to it.

PASQUALE

gdroot1961 asked:


I file bankruptcy 2 years ago. I reaffirmed my house then decided I could not afford it. I had two mortgages and we moved out and told bank to foreclose. They sold house and I was told that they could not collect anything owed because of the state laws where I live and that I had filed bankruptcy. Now my credit report shows the bankruptcy but not the foreclosure. So I am wandering if somehow the foreclosure will show up somewhere once I try to get another home loan?

EMILIO